I've been seeing this experience pop up on my feed for a whole year! Initially, I didn’t pay much heed to it as I had been to similar settlements earlier. Was this the first time I was taking a walkthrough in Bandra? Certainly not. I was excited to explore the history of the original inhabitants of Bandra for the first time. Or I can even say Mumbai. This was one of the primary reasons I signed up for the tour.
The Chimbai Koliwada walking tour begins at the Joggers Park in Bandra West. The walk starts at 10 am. A bliss for people who want to sleep in on Sundays. I booked this tour with an organisation known as Gohalluhallu. Their primary focus is bringing out the stories of the indigenous people of Mumbai. I believe this was my 6th walk with Gohalluhallu. After a brief round of Introductions and some revelations, the group started moving towards the actual Chimbai village. Before beginning the walk, let me introduce you to the walk leader, Thelma Auntie. She has been the torchbearer of this fishing community for years. I even developed an emotional connection with her later in the walk.
The journey started on empty terrain, cluttered with construction supplies and cranes. Surprisingly, I discovered that this location was designated for fishermen to dry fish. Slowly and steadily, we started moving towards a mushy patch filled with garbage on all sides. Don’t waste your time asking me about the smell. After walking for about 5 minutes, I saw a body of water before me. But the shore or the beach was nowhere to be seen.
To better understand the living conditions of the people, Thelma auntie took us through the lanes in which the fishermen's homes are situated. One can get lost in those lanes without a local guide. After a brief walk of about 10 minutes, the walking group was again back in the open—a sigh of relief for me. Still, the thought of no sand was lingering in my mind.
I was mesmerized by the enormous and infinite expanse of water before me. I started clicking photos right away. Yes, yes, I even shot videos. Thelma auntie then led us toward the jetty area. While walking towards the jetty, we saw a few fishermen repairing their fishing nets.
The walk towards the jetty was a scenic one. Just the vastness of the sea all around. Closer, boats were stranded on either side of the grey cement concrete walkway. A few fishing boats were also visible on the horizon. Thelma auntie pointed us towards rocks which had white shells poking out. She said these are used in making curries. But they had to be removed carefully from the stones; otherwise, it gives a deep cut. As our footsteps approached the sea, the water became more apparent. Towards the end, a concrete slant emerged into the ocean.
The view was just breathtaking. I could stand there for hours together. This is the charm of nature. I was so glad I hadn’t encountered this “hidden” place on my Instagram reels. Hallu hallu or slowly, slowly, I started observing the marine life. Several crabs hopped from rock to rock; seaweed swayed between the stones, and small fish darted by.
On our way back towards the settlements, Thelma Auntie told me I reminded her of her daughter. How her baby also wanted to join the walk but didn’t join as she couldn’t find the correct attire.
I saw a group of people knitting nets to catch the fish, someone was painting a boat, and a few fish were being dried. I learned that the type of nets being used depends upon the variety of marine life to be caught. Finer nets were used to catch smaller fish. Crabs were generally put in baskets, so they didn’t jump into the water. The path on which we were walking was filled with stones and debris. Not too long ago, this place was a beautiful sandy beach! How stunning it must have been!!
A distinctive feature of GoHalluHallu is incorporating a local meal into the overall experience. A traditional East Indian Lunch was offered to all the participants. Most of the dishes were in the fish and meat category. Thelma Auntie prepared a special Tikki as I had opted for a vegetarian meal. I absolutely loved the wedding papads, hand-made rice bread, and chicken vindaloo.
The overall walk is about three hours or so. It’s a slow-paced walk. A walk which allows you to soak in the ambience, people, sounds and smells around you. A walk that narrates the real stories of the original inhabitants of Mumbai. Chimbai is a place I wish remains untouched and yet gets discovered for its simplicity and serenity.
Enjoyed the walk through yr blog !